Koyasan, Japan

In the 10 plus years I've known my friend from college, we've moved a total of six or seven times. It's enough for us to know that it's pointless to jot down the other's address in some meaningful directory. I tried once, and failed. So over the years our own little tradition started to emerge: around birthdays or holidays, one of us will send a desperate text to the other, "Address please!" It's something so small, so insignificant, but both of us relish it. I immediately know she's at the post office (for once grateful for the snaking line) or wrapping a parcel. And I'm sure she envisions the same.

But if you had asked me what I thought of traditions 10 years ago, I would've replied with something like, "Stupid. Change should be the only tradition." Ha! (Was I a highfalutin young fart or what?) Change is freakin' hard. Contrary to my multiple moves, I dread it. Every time I see it galloping towards me I curse my inflexibility to escape like this. I feel traditions ease transitions though because they reorientate the mind, hopefully making change easier to accept. Now this isn't implying that traditions themselves are easy. Some are, some aren't. For example shedding one's clothes and hair before beginning a journey towards enlightenment in this lifetime* -- not easy. Fortunately for the buzz-cut averse the altitude and serenity of Koyasan, the center of Shingon Buddhism, will have you feeling pretty darn close to nirvana.

Any sensible person would have chosen to visit this town for spiritual enlightenment or something of the sort. They would've pondered their guidebook's suggestion, "Although it is possible to visit Koyasan as a day trip from Nara, Kyoto, or Osaka, it's much better to reduce the travel stress and stay overnight in one of the town's excellent shukubo (temple lodgings)", sensibly.

::sigh::

"'Stress" wasn't written in bold nor red, I did that for your benefit. Wouldn't it be nice if guidebooks guided a bit more bluntly? If they highlighted some key words or added a few captions like "Hey Einstein, if you're going to visit a Buddhist center, shouldn't you arrive stress-free??" Regardless of the state you arrive in though, you'll want to stay here for more than a day. Koyasan is what you were pining for in the temples of Kyoto or Tokyo. 

Don't get me wrong, the temples in those cities are well worth a visit, but visiting them almost feels like a spectator sport. Case in point, the crowd at this rock garden. My love for those miniature zen rock garden sets wasn't sufficed there. So began my quest to find the best of the best in Japan, and no surprise how it ended in Koyosan. Serendipitously with one my favourite daily traditions, afternoon tea. A pleasant surprise to calm my day.

*According to this source: "What does it mean to attain enlightenment in this very life? 'Sokushin Jobutsu' is the Japanese term for becoming a Buddha in this very physical body. This term is one of the main theories of Shingon Buddhism and distinguishes it from the other branches. Other doctrines of Buddhism require endless efforts over many lifetimes in order to attain enlightenment. Moreover, it is necessary to be reborn again and again in order to attain enlightenment. On the contrary, the teachings of Shingon Mikkyo preach that followers have the ability to become a Buddha in this real body in this life. Kobo Daishi teaches that it is possible for anyone to attain enlightenment. Worldly desires often prevent people from realizing this ability to achieve Buddha-hood, and although it is up to the abilities of the individual practitioner to find their own way, the potential exists for everyone. Shingon Mikkyo teaches that we all have the ability to be free from concerns and isolate ourselves from any trouble by achieving enlightenment in this very life."

Length of Stay

One day (stupidly!)

Docking Index 

    

Four anchors, I may gripe about my hair often, but I ain't ready to go G.I. Jane up in this joint. Plus, I'm nowhere near nor ready for enlightenment.